ma 13 dec, 2004 08:39
Cycling in Kyrgyzstan
General information
Guide books and maps
Lonely planet : Central Asia
Elmar : Dominicus, Reishandboek voor Uzbekistan en Kyrgyzstan (isbn9-0389-068-11)
H. Barker : Russia and Central Asia by road (isbn1-898323-61-5)
Cadogan Guides : Central Asia, The practical Handbook
Nelles Maps : Central Asia
Freytag&berndt : Central Asia 1:1.750.000
Kyrgyz Cartographic Agency, Kieveskaya str. 107, Bishkek tel: 0312-212296. geodes@imfiko.bishkek.su sells 1:200.000 maps of the whole country, a map of Bishkek, an overall map of Kyrgyzstan 1:1.000.000. and some district maps. Best maps for cycling.
Information and Travel agencies
Novi Nomad : Ap.10, 28 T.Moldo Str, Bishkek 720001, tel 0312-622381,
email novinomad@elcat.kg, www.novinomad.com
CBT : Main office. 4-95 Kievskaya street, ph: 0312-622385,
email kcbta@mail.ru, www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg
Kyrgyz concept : 126 Chuy Ave, Bishkek,720001 ph: 0312-666006
email: akc@elcat.kg, www.akc.com.kg
Horizon travel : 27 Umetalieva str., Bishkek 720017, ph: 0312-645147
Email horizon@elcat.kg, www.horizon.elcat.kg
Best season
From October till May you will have snow on the passes, in June this will start to melt. May and June are in the valleys however a great time to be; everywhere a sea of flowers and nice temperatures. July and August are hot in the valleys but the passes will be clear and it is the best time to go to the Jailoo and visit Tash Rabat, Samailee Tash and Lake Son Kul. In September it will start to get cold in the mountains, the herdsman will leave the Jailoo. October will again be cold in the mountains and the first snow will fall.
Safety
In Bishkek you get sometimes approached by policemen, official or not. If they ask your passport, show it, in 99% it is a routine control. If they ask you to show how much money you have, never do this. In case you are in trouble say that you want to phone the tourist police ph……. or go there with the “police man”. Usually the problem is then solved
Everywhere in the country it is save to camp. Follow your feelings. If you do not feel good about sleeping alone, ask people if you can camp on their meadow, yard or near their yurta.
A nuisance in whole Kyrgyzstan can be drunken people at any moment of the day. Get out of their way, or just be friendly and try to move on.
At some places there are control posts on the road. This can be police, customs, ecological control etc. just show them your passport and if your visa is not expired you will have no trouble. Never give money or gifts.
Visas & extension
Visas are necessary. You can obtain a one month visa from the embassies (Brussels) or upon arrival at Manas airport. Extensions are easily to get at the OVIR in every big city. Most countries do not have to register any more (most European countries) within three days of arrival at the OVIR. Check if you are among the lucky once. OVIR, Bishkek, Kiev 58, ph: 0312-2690627.
When entering the country overland ask for an entry stamp. If they do not have any, go in the next big town to the OVIR and ask one there. It can save you some hassle leaving the country.
The 72 hour transit visa for Central Asian countries (have a Kyrgyz visa and you could transit Kazakhstan without a visa) does not exist any more.
A special border permit is necessary if you want to cycle near the Chinese and Tajik border. You can get this permit at OVIR (Bishkek-Osh) or sometimes at a special border detachment (Karakol). Ask a travel agency for last information and even better ask them to do this for you. For crossing the border to China via Irkeshtam is no special border permit necessary.
Crossing borders
Uzbekistan : Usually no problem, but insist on an entry stamp entering Kyrgyzstan and entering in
Uzbekistan ask for a custom declaration form.
Tajikistan : The border crossing from Chong Alai to The Charm valley is apparently closed for
foreigners others then Tajik and Kyrgyz. People were turned back here. Other border
crossings are open
Kazakhstan : No problem.
China : For Torugart a lot of hassle and money. On the Kyrgyz site you need special border
permits on the Chinese site you should have arranged a guide and transport to Kashkar
already in Kyrgyzstan.
Better cycle via Osh-Sari Tash and Irkeshtam to Kashkar. Here no hassles only a valid
Chinese visa.
Transportation with in the Country
Flights:
Manas airport is now a modern airport with all facilities.
Daily flights to Osh (2-30, Jalal Abad (in summer) and Batken. To Osh 40$ one way. If the plane is big enough (Yak 40 too small and Antanov no problem) you can take your bicycle. You are allowed to take 15 kilo. For every additional kilo you pay 20 $cent more.
Train:
Trains from Bishkek to Balykchy. Pitoresk but better to cycle. No other train-connections except to Moscow.
Bus:
Long-distance buses: Bishkek-Karakol, Karakul-Osh, Osh-Kashkar (China) are good and take bicycles. All other busses old, slow but usually, if place, take bicycles.
Taxi and marsrutka:
Little bit more expensive, faster but often no place for bicycles. If you like to travel fast, hire a whole taxi with a roof rack are a big luggage compartment.
Accommodation
Cycling in Kyrgyzstan means that you have to be self-supporting. It is impossible to find accommodation in hotels every night and some times you will not find a place to eat. Several travel agencies organize bicycle tours. You cycle, they carry your stuff and organize food and accommodation in tents.
- No camping sites but you can camp everywhere, Kyrgyz are nomads and also live in tents.
- CBT (community based tourism) has in the main cities offices and members where you can find accommodation and food at private houses(8$-11$ B&B). At some places (SonKul, around Kochkor) accommodation in yurts.
- Hotels, almost every town has his old Intertourist hotel.(3$-20$) Can be cheap but sometimes they still charge you foreigner prices. Usually rundown, straight forward, Soviet style accommodation and service.
- Some private hotels exist. They are usually better but also more expensive.(15$-80$).
Food
-Restaurants. In the bigger cities more and more western style restaurants.(meal 3$-12$). Outside Bishkek usually traditional Uzbek/ Uygur/ Dungan or Kyrgyz menu(2$-5$)
-Stolovajas; Canteen style places where the locals fill up with food and vodka. Cheaper then the restaurants with all the same menu and Formica interior. Found all over the country.(1$-3$)
-Bazaars. You will find here people who sell snacks and useally some stolovajas with basic menu.
-Bazaars in almost every big or medium sized town. You will find all things you need for cooking yourself.
-Shops and small kiosks in every town and sometimes along the road. Basic items like macaroni, tinned fish, cookies, oil, sweets, mineral water, bread and vodka. Usually no vegetables or fruit.
-Water from the taps in the villages or from mountain streams. Use iodine if you do not trust it.
Bicycle
- CBT-Bishkek has two bicycles for rent. Mainly for use in Bishkek.
- Forget about buying spare parts in shops.
- Oleg Yuganov runs the “Bike Master’. The only person in town who has some exclusive spare parts and repairs bicycles. 14a Serova Str, ph 0312-670974
Communication.
Learn some Russian and the Cyrillic alphabet. Very few people speak English.
Outside the Chuy valley, people speak more and more only Kyrgyz.
Usually communication is no problem, people are friendly and willing to help.
On the road
General information on road and track conditions
Kyrgyzstan give you open spaces, high passes, beautiful lakes, beaches, high pasture mountains and desert like landscapes. These are all connected through roads constructed in Soviet time. As Kyrgyzstan was the main supplier of sheep meat for the Soviet Union the pastures were heavily used in summer and a myriad of roads connect them with the valleys and cities, ideal for cycling.
The main roads are, although mostly rough for cars, perfect for cycling. The Bishkek-Osh road is between Bishkek and Usgen just repaired and in perfect condition. Usgen-Osh is still a headache but will be ready end 2005. Most of the roads especially in the mountains and to the Jailoos are unpaved, but good for cycling
Apart from the Bishkek-Balykchy road the traffic is not heavy, sometimes non existing.
Traffic rules do exist but are not observed. A car has always right of way, a driving license is bought, which says enough. On the main roads some people tend to drive too fast especially in the evenings and at night be careful. Better to stop before sunset. At night in towns and along roads no street lights. Manhole lids can disappear overnight. Use (excessive) of alcohol does not prevent somebody from driving. Signposts are almost none existing and if there are they are 99% in Cyrillic.
All though this all sounds as rather dangerous, I feel save and most of the drivers drive slow and take care of cyclists.
General information
Guide books and maps
Lonely planet : Central Asia
Elmar : Dominicus, Reishandboek voor Uzbekistan en Kyrgyzstan (isbn9-0389-068-11)
H. Barker : Russia and Central Asia by road (isbn1-898323-61-5)
Cadogan Guides : Central Asia, The practical Handbook
Nelles Maps : Central Asia
Freytag&berndt : Central Asia 1:1.750.000
Kyrgyz Cartographic Agency, Kieveskaya str. 107, Bishkek tel: 0312-212296. geodes@imfiko.bishkek.su sells 1:200.000 maps of the whole country, a map of Bishkek, an overall map of Kyrgyzstan 1:1.000.000. and some district maps. Best maps for cycling.
Information and Travel agencies
Novi Nomad : Ap.10, 28 T.Moldo Str, Bishkek 720001, tel 0312-622381,
email novinomad@elcat.kg, www.novinomad.com
CBT : Main office. 4-95 Kievskaya street, ph: 0312-622385,
email kcbta@mail.ru, www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg
Kyrgyz concept : 126 Chuy Ave, Bishkek,720001 ph: 0312-666006
email: akc@elcat.kg, www.akc.com.kg
Horizon travel : 27 Umetalieva str., Bishkek 720017, ph: 0312-645147
Email horizon@elcat.kg, www.horizon.elcat.kg
Best season
From October till May you will have snow on the passes, in June this will start to melt. May and June are in the valleys however a great time to be; everywhere a sea of flowers and nice temperatures. July and August are hot in the valleys but the passes will be clear and it is the best time to go to the Jailoo and visit Tash Rabat, Samailee Tash and Lake Son Kul. In September it will start to get cold in the mountains, the herdsman will leave the Jailoo. October will again be cold in the mountains and the first snow will fall.
Safety
In Bishkek you get sometimes approached by policemen, official or not. If they ask your passport, show it, in 99% it is a routine control. If they ask you to show how much money you have, never do this. In case you are in trouble say that you want to phone the tourist police ph……. or go there with the “police man”. Usually the problem is then solved
Everywhere in the country it is save to camp. Follow your feelings. If you do not feel good about sleeping alone, ask people if you can camp on their meadow, yard or near their yurta.
A nuisance in whole Kyrgyzstan can be drunken people at any moment of the day. Get out of their way, or just be friendly and try to move on.
At some places there are control posts on the road. This can be police, customs, ecological control etc. just show them your passport and if your visa is not expired you will have no trouble. Never give money or gifts.
Visas & extension
Visas are necessary. You can obtain a one month visa from the embassies (Brussels) or upon arrival at Manas airport. Extensions are easily to get at the OVIR in every big city. Most countries do not have to register any more (most European countries) within three days of arrival at the OVIR. Check if you are among the lucky once. OVIR, Bishkek, Kiev 58, ph: 0312-2690627.
When entering the country overland ask for an entry stamp. If they do not have any, go in the next big town to the OVIR and ask one there. It can save you some hassle leaving the country.
The 72 hour transit visa for Central Asian countries (have a Kyrgyz visa and you could transit Kazakhstan without a visa) does not exist any more.
A special border permit is necessary if you want to cycle near the Chinese and Tajik border. You can get this permit at OVIR (Bishkek-Osh) or sometimes at a special border detachment (Karakol). Ask a travel agency for last information and even better ask them to do this for you. For crossing the border to China via Irkeshtam is no special border permit necessary.
Crossing borders
Uzbekistan : Usually no problem, but insist on an entry stamp entering Kyrgyzstan and entering in
Uzbekistan ask for a custom declaration form.
Tajikistan : The border crossing from Chong Alai to The Charm valley is apparently closed for
foreigners others then Tajik and Kyrgyz. People were turned back here. Other border
crossings are open
Kazakhstan : No problem.
China : For Torugart a lot of hassle and money. On the Kyrgyz site you need special border
permits on the Chinese site you should have arranged a guide and transport to Kashkar
already in Kyrgyzstan.
Better cycle via Osh-Sari Tash and Irkeshtam to Kashkar. Here no hassles only a valid
Chinese visa.
Transportation with in the Country
Flights:
Manas airport is now a modern airport with all facilities.
Daily flights to Osh (2-30, Jalal Abad (in summer) and Batken. To Osh 40$ one way. If the plane is big enough (Yak 40 too small and Antanov no problem) you can take your bicycle. You are allowed to take 15 kilo. For every additional kilo you pay 20 $cent more.
Train:
Trains from Bishkek to Balykchy. Pitoresk but better to cycle. No other train-connections except to Moscow.
Bus:
Long-distance buses: Bishkek-Karakol, Karakul-Osh, Osh-Kashkar (China) are good and take bicycles. All other busses old, slow but usually, if place, take bicycles.
Taxi and marsrutka:
Little bit more expensive, faster but often no place for bicycles. If you like to travel fast, hire a whole taxi with a roof rack are a big luggage compartment.
Accommodation
Cycling in Kyrgyzstan means that you have to be self-supporting. It is impossible to find accommodation in hotels every night and some times you will not find a place to eat. Several travel agencies organize bicycle tours. You cycle, they carry your stuff and organize food and accommodation in tents.
- No camping sites but you can camp everywhere, Kyrgyz are nomads and also live in tents.
- CBT (community based tourism) has in the main cities offices and members where you can find accommodation and food at private houses(8$-11$ B&B). At some places (SonKul, around Kochkor) accommodation in yurts.
- Hotels, almost every town has his old Intertourist hotel.(3$-20$) Can be cheap but sometimes they still charge you foreigner prices. Usually rundown, straight forward, Soviet style accommodation and service.
- Some private hotels exist. They are usually better but also more expensive.(15$-80$).
Food
-Restaurants. In the bigger cities more and more western style restaurants.(meal 3$-12$). Outside Bishkek usually traditional Uzbek/ Uygur/ Dungan or Kyrgyz menu(2$-5$)
-Stolovajas; Canteen style places where the locals fill up with food and vodka. Cheaper then the restaurants with all the same menu and Formica interior. Found all over the country.(1$-3$)
-Bazaars. You will find here people who sell snacks and useally some stolovajas with basic menu.
-Bazaars in almost every big or medium sized town. You will find all things you need for cooking yourself.
-Shops and small kiosks in every town and sometimes along the road. Basic items like macaroni, tinned fish, cookies, oil, sweets, mineral water, bread and vodka. Usually no vegetables or fruit.
-Water from the taps in the villages or from mountain streams. Use iodine if you do not trust it.
Bicycle
- CBT-Bishkek has two bicycles for rent. Mainly for use in Bishkek.
- Forget about buying spare parts in shops.
- Oleg Yuganov runs the “Bike Master’. The only person in town who has some exclusive spare parts and repairs bicycles. 14a Serova Str, ph 0312-670974
Communication.
Learn some Russian and the Cyrillic alphabet. Very few people speak English.
Outside the Chuy valley, people speak more and more only Kyrgyz.
Usually communication is no problem, people are friendly and willing to help.
On the road
General information on road and track conditions
Kyrgyzstan give you open spaces, high passes, beautiful lakes, beaches, high pasture mountains and desert like landscapes. These are all connected through roads constructed in Soviet time. As Kyrgyzstan was the main supplier of sheep meat for the Soviet Union the pastures were heavily used in summer and a myriad of roads connect them with the valleys and cities, ideal for cycling.
The main roads are, although mostly rough for cars, perfect for cycling. The Bishkek-Osh road is between Bishkek and Usgen just repaired and in perfect condition. Usgen-Osh is still a headache but will be ready end 2005. Most of the roads especially in the mountains and to the Jailoos are unpaved, but good for cycling
Apart from the Bishkek-Balykchy road the traffic is not heavy, sometimes non existing.
Traffic rules do exist but are not observed. A car has always right of way, a driving license is bought, which says enough. On the main roads some people tend to drive too fast especially in the evenings and at night be careful. Better to stop before sunset. At night in towns and along roads no street lights. Manhole lids can disappear overnight. Use (excessive) of alcohol does not prevent somebody from driving. Signposts are almost none existing and if there are they are 99% in Cyrillic.
All though this all sounds as rather dangerous, I feel save and most of the drivers drive slow and take care of cyclists.
