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Las in the Atlars

Salamu lekum !

For those who do not know my mails, I write in (bad) english because I have friends and familie who cannot read dutch ..
My first day in Morocco I went shopping, nothing exciting about that ;-)
My first cycling day ( and the 4 others ) were exciting, falling in love with this great country the first minute.
Cycling out of Marrakesh in sunshine and in shorts, the way cycling is meant to be ;-)
After a good 80 km I thought I found a good campsite, just above the road a nice and flat piece of land. Pitching my tent a man had seen me and came to me, shit I thought nobody had seen me ... The man said to me I couldn't camp here.
Why not I asked and the man started to explain but I didn't understand in the beginning.
He pointed at some rocks and sad something like dead. My eyes went big, is this a graveyard I asked ? Turned out to be indeed. Now I have this little problem that when I am tired and found a place to sleep I want to stay so for a split second I thought, maybe I can just stay but immediately rejected the idea, that was even too much for me, sleeping with the dead hahaha, not yet huh I hope !
The nice man pointed at a place a hundred meters away, I checked it out and thought it was okay, it was a little bit in sight of the roqd but it was getting dark, not much time to look for another place and when it is dark nobody can see me.
But, as I was pitching my tent for the second time I was spotted again ...
Shit I thought, also again ;-) and decided to stay, against the golden rules of camping in the wild, make sure nobody sees you.
I was up this mountain road, near a tiny village and thought that the chance of being robbed or something was almost 0.
Near a big city I would never do this but here in the mountains ...
The chance that there were thieves here were nihil, they operate in big cities normally.
In these small villages not or it must be a very succesfull thief out of the city with a second house in the mountains hahaha.
So I stayed and had an incredible cold night ...

Next day cycled further up the Tiz ' Tichka, 2260 meters high.
Through snow fields and cold winds but the scenery made it all worthwile !
Followed by another great 4 days I m now in Boumalne du dades, tomorro a resting day and then to Gorges du Dades, a 42 km piste ( unpaved very bad 4wd road over an 2800 m pass ) into Todra Gorge.
I looked at the beautifull mountains today, a little like the usa, and I cannot wait to jump on my bike again !
But my body need some rest and so do I, so I sent this mail and go to bed !

Have a good one !

Lars
Hey Lars!

Thanks for posting. We already wondered how you were doing.
Yep the graveyards looks like a field with stones....just like lots of parts of Morocco. But next time you'll notice the difference. And about the rules of wildcamping.....in Morocco there is always a person. I don't know how but they seem to hide behind the small stones. Although it seems every time I wanted to stop to have a pee. :lol:

Glad you love Morocco.

Have fun!

Blanche
Who visit Morocco already 9 times 8)
He Lars,

Voortaan eerst een titel voor je mailtje verzinnen, dan pas aan het bier....
Veel plezier!

John.
Hey Lars,

Klopt helemaal. Wij hebben trouwens in twee weken tijd de helft wildgekampeerd en 1x bezoek gehad 's avonds. Die plek was dus iets te dicht bij een dorpje. Maar totaal geen problemen verder, slechts een paar benauwde momenten van mij. En 's morgens is het erg genieten als je in totale isolatie in de bergen in de zon kan ontbijten.

Enne...die doorsteek van Msemrir naar Tamtatouche, die 42 km piste... Goed zoeken naar de juiste piste hoor! Msemrir uitrijden tot aan de waterbron (muurtje met straal water uit), en dan vooral niet daar naar rechts en de bergen in, maar iets verderop pas!!! Het mannetje in hotel Edwarda (of zoiets) in Msemrir kan hele mooie plattegronden tekenen en weet precies de weg....
oftewel...het is ons niet gelukt de weg te vinden :roll:

Bonne route!

Anneke
Hoi Lars,

veel plezier in Marokko, en goed oppassen in de Anti-Atlars. :wink:

Groetjes,
Frank
Pas op voor de Berbers op dat stukje. Vorig jaar maart spuugde er een mevrouw naar me... :?

Verder "vooral doorgaan" :lol:! Is een leuk stukje!

Mocht je nog tijd hebben, dan kun je het stuk Alnif - Tissemoumine - Zagora overwegen. Lekker de woestijn in!

En w.b. die koude nachten: daar hád je je natuurlijk een paar weken geleden op kunnen voorbereiden... :wink:
Robertjan schreef:Pas op voor de Berbers op dat stukje. Vorig jaar maart spuugde er een mevrouw naar me... :?
Nou dat is mij nou nooit overkomen. Wat had je gedaan?? :wink:
Hey Lars,

Ga je nu zwabberend over de piste?, of heb je een oplossing gevonden?

Veel plezier nog!!

Roald
Blanche schreef:Wat had je gedaan?? :wink:
Toen ik even stopte om m'n fietsmaat wat in te kunnen laten lopen, bood zij mij de prachtigste mineralen aan. Helaas ben ik daar niet gevoelig voor.

Daarna werd duidelijk dat m'n fietstas ook níét vol zat met geld, snoepjes en/of pennen, en werd ik uiteindelijk bespuugd door mevrouw.
Dat ik haar daarop heb bekogeld met een steen, is eigenlijk alleen maar toepasselijker voor de regio... :wink:
Hoi Roald, Het zwabberen is wel een stuk minder nu ik mijn bagage achterop anders heb verdeeld, er valt mee te fietsen ...

Bonjour !

Forget to tell you what happened in the hammam in Boumalne du dades where I had my day off. A hammam is sort of a sauna, looked like a good idea to escape the bitterly cold winds outside, even in my spartan hotelroom, without heating, it is like 12 degrees ...
So a hammam in the afternoon ...
The very nice and helpfull man showed me around and helped me getting around; meaning get me a bucket of hot, very hot water and a place on the ground to sit on, that s it !
But he also asked if I like a massage and stupid enough I said yeah ...
He was rubbing my skin with a special glove and touching my mucles and making kissing sounds, that should have warned me ...
He kept on giving me compliments for my body and he, I am in pretty good shape so I kinda liked it ;-)
No fat, just muscles, hard as steel haha.
The man massaged other parts, legs and so and went accidently a little too much and deep in my shorts ...
Just as I wanted to say stop he went lower again, pff
Maybe my mom was right warning me for the many homosexuals here hahaha.

Anyway, next day I took off for Dades Gorge which was great, only this very strong head wind ... Resting in a tiny village one of the kids asked me if I liked thee. Yaeh sure I said and minutes later he brought me a pot of thee his mom made for me, how nice !

I made it that day 63 km up to Msemrir where I asked around for the next, more difficult part. A 42 km piste over a 2800 meter high pass. On the internet I read a story that é cyclists had to walk for 20 km because of the bad road ...
Asking around I learned that one day ago 2 4x4 WD cars didn t make it and returnd, because of the snow. With two sunny days and in mind that I could walk I decided to give it a try ... Drove up 6 km into this canyon which took me almost an hour. Rocks as big as foorballs made it hard to cycle, it looked sometimes as if I was riding through a riverbed wihich was actually true :-)
Djee, I have cycled some bad roads but this was a different cookie hahaha.

That evening I made camp under a million stars and went to bed early, socks, pyama s and an extra fleece on for the cold. At morning it was only -2 in my tent and I had a good night, not cold. Good that I put all my water inside my tent and one bottle at the end of my matress because thet was the only one not frozen so I was able to make my morning coffee.
Cycling furter up and up, average 7 km an hour I made it all the way up !
Short after the summit there was some snow I had to walk through, only a couple of hundred meters.
So what the 4x4 WD cars coudn t do I did !!!
Feeling a little proud I moved on and only fell twice. Very slow so no damage.
I cycled the 42 km in 4.26 hours, average 9.5 km an hour, not bad huh ?!?

Decide to reward myself with a hot shower I choose a campsite for 2.5 euro.

Next day I cycled to Goulmima, my plan was to cycle up north to Rich and from there to Er Rachidia, where I am now. Just after Goulmima I had my first sandstorm, man o man ... Almost blowing me of my bike, so strong and so coming straight ahead, pfff.
Made camp at a Gite d etappe and next morning I asked the lady of the house how the road was, snow and stuff like that. Yeah she said, look at the sky. We looked and indeed, thar gray colour didn t promise a lot of goods ...
Shit, I wanted to cycle this road, so here to I decided to give it a try.
But soon after leaving, a strong head wind again, I saw some snow in the air and the closer I came, the more gray it became. After 7 km I had to wade through a river and at that point I decided to go back. Ahead of me gray clouds, a strong head wind and a climbing road. Behind me blue skies, the same wind but now in the back and the road going down. I think I made the right decision.
What followed were an easy 27 km followed by 60 km to Er Rachidia with an amazing strong head wind again. But the sun was shining here, you just can t have it all huh.
Tomorrow my second day off, after that visiting Ziz Gorge and then going to the south, to the desert and dunes !!!

Looking forward to that !

Greetings
Leuke pas inderdaad :lol:! Die hebben we vorig jaar andersom gefietst.

Aan stenen geen gebrek, zullen we maar zeggen :wink: ...
Nice to hear again from you Lars! Especially you're encounter in the Hamman.
Strange this didn't happen with us when we visit the Hamman. I guess you're irresistible :lol:

Your story makes me longing to go back again (10th time :roll: ).
I'm sorry the weather this year isn't that good as you make your first encounter with Morocco.

Keep on rolling and enjoying !!


Blanche 8)
Blanche you are so wrong ... Not that I am irresistable hahaha but the weather ! Almost 2 weeks of sunshine now !!!
But you are right this country is something ....

Salaam aleikum

So, no more hammams for me ;-)
And it isn t as hot as our sauna so not that nice.

Cycling out of Er Rachidia into Ziz Gorges which is just like all the other gorges gorgeous !
A man I met had told me about this small road out of Er Rachidia going south, towards Erg Chebbi, the north / western part of the Sahara desert.
Very nice road indeed, winding through irrigated palm and olive trees, surrounded by desert.
Made it in two fast days, 111 km and 126 km to Erg Chebbi and had a nice afternoon, seeying the dunes change colour in sunset.
Next day left to ride the road from Rissani to Alnif, road nr N12.
But here my map, my road atlas went wrong ...
The road was just signed as a red line, no green line attached to it indicating a scenery road. But is was such a great road, especially the first part, reminding me of the road I cycled from Puno, Peru to La Paz, Bolivia.
On one side red coloured rocky mountains, on the other side this wide open valley, at the background the high Atlas... some amazing vieuws and me just cycling through, as happy as can be

Next day was a hard one, which also brought this mail to you ...
First 20 km to Alnif were great but then I had to turn north, to Ait el farsi.
It supposed to be a dirt road all along but not anymore, only the first 15 km out of Alnif, rest is asphalt. And it supposed to be a top 10 road, according to this german guys website but to me it was just a road, not nice at all.
Or was it because of the imense strong head wind ...
Or was it because last night was so nice, drinking whiskey and smoking a big cuban cigar under a million stars ... Feeling the alcohol the next day in my legs ...

I made it to the big road the N10 and there decided to take a lift or bus or taxi or whatever, alternatif was cycling to Tinerhir ( a rad I had allready cycled ) for 25 km in this crazy wind, taking like to 2 hours ... NO way I thought, better spend 1 hour in an internetcafe telling you about this.
So in fact you guys helped me out here, gee, thanks !

Now on my way to Ikniounn or ikniouln and from there to Nkob and Zagora where I planned to take my last resting day

But not before : I have told you how really great Morocco is, if you like rough mountains, stony deserts filled with poisonous snakes and deadly scorpions and here and there these green oases filled with beautifull palmtrees ...

Yeah, having a great time here !

Greetings Lars
Ha Lars,

Mooi dat je t naar je zin hebt! Ik wist t wel :-)
Vanaf Iknioun krijg je nog een hele mooie piste naar Nekob de Tizi-n-Tazazerte over! De afdaling is "wat" stenig, dus kan je lekker langzaam naar beneden en heb je lekker tijd om van het mooie uitzicht te genieten. Al zul je wel af en toe ook naar de weg zelf moeten kijken, ik heb hem nl van heel dicht bij gezien :oops:

Anneke
Hey Anneke, guess what ?!?
Bovenop de pas op weg naar Nkob heb je een hotelletje he.
Ik vroeg aan die beste man of ik daar mijn tentje op mocht zetten, a million dollar vieuw ...
Even later kwam hij met het gastenboek aan en toen ik aan het schrijven was viel mijn oog op een getekend fietsje onderaan het berichtje voor mij en toen las ik de namen : Anneke en Patrick from the netherlands !!!
Hahaha geweldig he !?!
En het was inderdaan een aardig bonkige steenweg naar beneden zeg, pfoehee !

Salaam aleikum !

This trip I forgot my Point It book, a little book with pictures in it from for example all kinds of fruit or bread, means of transport, you name it. Very easy if you do not know the chinese word for tomato, you just point at the picture and voila !
So I forgot it and I was in this little shop and I wanted to buy some eggs.
First tried it in french but without luck so what do you do then ?
Yeah, you demonstrate it. pretending I was a chicken I went through my knees a little bit, waving my arms and pretend I shit out an egg. Pointing at the invisible egg in my hand I had : many laughs and they understood ! They always do and it is quit fun, becoming quite an expert hahaha.

Before this trip to Morocco I read and heared about stone throwing kids.
Well ...
The only things thrown at me are : bonjour monsieur, ca va ? And bon route ! Or bon voyage ! Smiles and little children waving at me.
Ofcourse the usual : donner moi un stylo, donner moi un bonbon and donner moi d argent ?
What I do is to try and clap hands with these kids, me riding my bicycle and they in a line on the street. Clapping hands, so simple but fun and they fotget to ask for the pen, candy or money !

Me I am in Zagora right now where I met this german guy, also riding his bike.
We are neighbours on the campsite, last night we cooked together and spoke of our travels, great ! He showed me some pictures of south america, Chili and Argentina, so nice ...

The road to Zagora was a green coloured one, so it should be a beautifull one.
I also heard from an other couple that it should be a nice road ...
Well, I think I am a strange bird because I didn t like the road at all !
The other one, yesterday, the white one from nkob to this road, that was a nice road !
So yeah, I think I am a strange bird but you know what ?
Maybe it is not always easy to be one but they sure can fly high !

And that my friends feels so good ...

Lars
Hey Lars!

You survived the Piste down to Nekob 8) Just like Anneke I saw the stones very very close by :cry: Actually we stayed at the little gite down the pass. The storeis about throwing stones wasn't our cup of thea either in the past 9 years. We also had nearly only friendly words/people.

Enjoy your trip!

Blanche
In Holland we have a saying : Hoogmoed komt voor de val ...

Well, I did fel ...



What happened,

After a nice night in Zagora spend with two other cyclists, one from Germany and one from France I wanted to cycle a nice road to Tazenakht, through Ait Haman, a yellow road on my map. Now, when you have a map like Michellin a yellow road is a small road, in between a white road and a red one.
So I thought it would be an asphalt road but the guy from germany already told me it was a dirt road. Well, oke, fine a good dirtroad then I thought.
Cycling out of Zagora the road would begin 10 km out of Zagora.
10 km, 12 km, 16 km ...
No road.
20 km, 22 km, no road !!!
Asking for the dirt road to Zagora one men wanted to send me the wrong road, the road to Foum Sguid.
No not that one I said, the dirt road to Ait Haman.
He didn t know.
So I went back, where was this road, how could I ve missed it ?
10 km back and I saw two cars left from me, where the dirt road should be.
Following the cars with my eyes I finally reached the point where I should have turned right. But this was a dirt track so bad, was THIS the yellow road to Ait Haman ???
And the road had many turn offs so I didn t know which one to take ...
Asking around, some people where working there, nobody knew the dirt road I wanted to cycle. Then, suddenly one of the man pointed in some direction, before that house to the left, then after that mountain right. Oke, great !
So I did. It was good the man told me to go right after the mountain because there were no signs at all and nobody to ask.
But still, the road was so bad ...

Cycling on and on, further and further and still not knowing if I was on the right road ...
After many difficult kms finally there was a house and I asked for the road to Ait Haman.
The boy didn t know.
Tazenakht ? I asked and the boy still didn t know.
Bleda he said.
What, Breda ?
No, Bleda.
Bleda was not on my map.
Let me look at your map and I have to tell you, that is never a good idea, to have the locals look probably for the first time in their lives at a road map.
The boys fingers went from Merzouga 300 km to the east to Agadir, the same distance to the west. Finally he found Zagora and said : ah, Zagora !
A little unpatient I grabbed the map out of his hands and said : this is not going to work.
Wait mister, let me learn the map the boy said which I didn t agree with him.
One more time I tried Ait Haman and Tazenakht ( last one is a pretty big city so the boy must know ) but all he kept talking about was Bleda.
Angry and frustrated I threw my map on the floor, that helped !
Not so ;-(

Okay, I go back I said, God knows where this road will end, I do not know and that ç&éà"'ç Bleda is NOT on my map so where will I end huh ?!?
The the kid spoke the legandary words : mister, not go back ( he probably saw that I hated that idea ) , not go back, go to Bleda, that is a big city like Zagora ( remember this, Zagora has over 15000 people ... ) , you can ask over there, there are guides there who maybe can help you. I do not need a guide boy, I just want to cycle this road to Tazenakht.
And the boy said, maybe I do not know this road goes to Tazenakht ...
That triggered me, maybe the kid is right !
Meaning, I do not have to go back !
So, there I decide to go on and thanked the boy for, yeah, for what, giving me hope again ?

Mile after mile the road went worse and almost no houses.

Then I saw two shepards and asked for the road to Bleda, straight on they said !
Ait Haman I tried but they didn t know ...

Crossing a river bed the road was gone, I couldn t find it anymore so I waited for the shepards who were going the same direction. I asked where the road was and one of them guided me and said, pointed, something like a left turn, not to go right.

In the mean time the road was so bad and so steep I couldn t cycle for many meters so I walked and cycled further and further into this middle of nowhere ...
There the road splitted and I was so glad the sheppard told me to go left.

Time was nearly 5 o clock so I decided it was enough for that day and soon I found a ver nice spot, 3 meters right from the road but with only two sheppards I saw that day and none else I thought it didn t matter that everybody could see me because there just was NOBODY !!!
Just me and my bike :-)

Had a wonderfull night under the stars ...

Next day I cycled further but soon the road went very bad again so I walked 15 meters, cycle 5, walk another 10 meters, cycle 20 ! Pff, this was the real stuff huh !

But still not knowing where I would end ... Bleda, grr, if only Bleda was on my map ...
I climbed higher and higher, walked many meters more untill I climbed out of this gorge ...

To be continued ...
Heee Lars :wink:
Wherever you're heading too....there seem to be an internetcafe.
So you dind't starve or dehydrated 8)

Have some more fun the next few days!

Blanche
Spannend! Ik heb even stiekem op google maps gekeken, daar staat Bleida ook op, de weg richting Ait Haman!

Op de kaart in ieder geval een mooie route! Ik ben benieuwd naar het vervolg van je verhaal.
Makes you feeling really alive, doesn't it? :)

Thanks for sharing